Adapting Locks to Keys

This job came about because our new aquisition, Matilda the 1966 Daf 32, came without keys.  It's equally applicable if, for example, you replace a door or boot lock but want it to work with your existing keys.  In this case, the locks are Matilda's and the key is Betty's.  Two Dafs, one key...

First you need to remove the locks from the car - I'll leave you to work that out for yourselves cos I haven't got any photos from that stage.  Once the locks are out, the door lock is the easiest because the barrel is the easiest to remove.  Take one door handle:

Door handle before dismantling


and undo the screw that holds the plate to the barrel:
Undo screw securing barrel;


The barrel then simply pushes out of the handle:

Push barrel out of handle


Door lock barrel


Now put the "new" key into the barrel and see where the tumblers sit:

Fit key to barrel


To make the key work, you now need to file all the sticking-out bits of tumbler down flush with the barrel body:

Filing tumblers


You'll find that one side of the lock is quite easy to file but on the other side the tumblers will push into the body against spring pressure.  Use a small screwdriver pressing against the opposite end of these tumblers so you can get pressure on to file them.


All tumblers need to end up flush with the barrel when the key's inserted.  They also need to be carefully de-burred to keep the lock smooth.  The end one in this photo has a little further to go:

Tumblers filed to fit


Once they're all flush, refit the barrel to the lock and test.  Locked:

Key in locked position


and unlocking (just to prove it turns):

Key turning to unlock


If it's a little rough then remove again and file a little more as needed.

The boot lock is taken apart by removing the screw and assorted lock bits (this will have been done when you remove it from the car - I'd put them back together for safekeeping) and prising out the spring ring in the end:

Boot lock

Boot lock retaining ring


For the (dash mounted) ignition switch, carefully prise up the three crimps holding the lock body to the switch and slide the switch from the body:

Ignition lock is crimped together


Remove the barrel, which simply lifts out of the switch:

Remove ignition barrel


and use a suitable small punch to tap out the pin holding everything together:

Ignition barrel retaining pin

Removing ignition barrel retaining pin


That allows the barrel to come out of the body:

Ignition barrel removed


Both the boot and ignition barrels, once removed, are treated to the same filing as the door lock.

It should go without saying by now that reassembly is the reverse of removal!

Note that doing this reduces security a bit because it widens the range of keys that will open the lock - the original one will still work, as will the new one, and any with a profile in between the two on the tumblers that have been filed.  That said, the locks on these provide so little security anyway that if the altered ones don't stop someone then it's very unlikely that original ones will either!

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