Triumph 1300 Jacking Point Repair

This was the major bit of welding needed for Sheila's first MOT under my ownership. The jacking point had collapsed in use (with her previous owner) and revealed some fairly nasty looking grot around the front sill closure:


The jacking point as presented


The first thing to do in any case like this is to cut away till you can see the extent of the damage.  This is the part where you'll feel afraid - very afraid!  Fortunately in this case, as in quite a lot of them, the damage didn't go too deep.  It certainly wasn't past patching:


Worst of the tinworm cut out


At this point take a wire brush to anything remotely loose and flaky and smother everything you can reach with rust converter.  If you do that and inject waxoyl (other rust inhibitors are available face-smile.png ) when you finish there's no reason your repair won't last.


Assuming you're not going to buy in panels (if they're even available) then the next bit is the longest part of the job.  Making up bits to fit takes time but not too much skill as long as you're not trying for a concourse finish.  If that is what you want then forget reading my stuff and go ask a professional!


On the other hand, if you want a structurally sound and reasonably fitting repair then you need to look at the area you've cut out and work out what panel shapes will restore strength and looks.  In this case, about 2 hours work produced these from 1mm steel sheet:


parts ready to fit


They consist of an inner plate to reinforce the jacking point iutself, a new closure panel, a new end for the outer sill where it goes behind the wing and a new wing bottom to replce the part cut out for access.  They fit together like this:


Inner bits clamped together


with the wing bottom going outside:


All together now....


On the car, they go something like this (not including the wing bottom):


Checking fit to car


Once you're happy with the fit, it's time to get the welder out.  Putting the new metal in is a case of starting on the "inner" stuff and building up with layers until everything's in place.  Most of this could have been legitimately spot welded but it's not that much extra effort to run seams and makes it much less likely that it'll fail in future.


Inner plate first.  Seam welded round, then stitched to the inner sill reinforcer:


inner plate fitted


That was followed by the sill end piece and the new splash / closure panel.  At this point, the jacking point was tested to make sure it could lift the car without any sign of giving way.  Much easier to have a weld break now than when it's all back together and painted!


Testing the jacking point


Finally, the wing bottom was butt welded in place, the whole area washed again with rust converter, and a nice coat of underseal added for protection:


Jobe complete


All that's left to do now is to grind down the weld on the wing, quick skim of filler and some nice new paint.  That's for another day so, for now, the wing bottom has just been painted with rust converter so it doesn't start to rust while the weather's bad.


Total time for this was about 5 hours but split over a couple of days - do it in one sitting and it's a morning's work at most!

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